Diarrha N’Diaye, the founder of Ami Colé, revealed in July that she was closing the company to close the brand due to mounting financial difficulties. This news deeply affected the Black-owned beauty sector, as Ami Colé was widely regarded as a leading success story, bolstered by a dedicated fanbase and a highly anticipated Sephora launch. The situation led many other founders to question their own brand's viability, thinking, "If Ami Colé can't succeed, what hope do I have?"
TL;DR
- Diarrha N’Diaye, founder of Ami Colé, will lead Skims' new beauty division.
- Ami Colé's closure highlighted challenges for Black-owned beauty brands.
- Glossier and Fearless Fund support Black founders facing financial difficulties.
- Skims' hiring signals appreciation for Black talent in the beauty sector.
Range Beauty founder Alicia Scott observed the significant support shown when N’Diaye revealed Ami Colé's closure, prompting her to question why Black-owned brands don't receive such backing prior to their cessation.
“We are trying to understand where that support is throughout the longevity of the brand,” Scott says. “There are larger conversations that need to go on, or else we’re going to see more doors shut.”
Scott’s brand Range brings in seven figures in revenue and is sold in 88 Sephora stores. In 2021 and 2024, she won $50,000 and $100,000 grants from Glossier, through a program that supports Black-owned beauty brands. The Glossier grant helped her pay for inventory to make a Sephora launch happen after other planned funding fell through. Glossier is supporting other alumni of its 5-year-old grant program this year because of the challenges so many of these emerging brands are facing—and despite political fear among many other companies to keep these kinds of programs going. “We felt we had even more of a necessity to step up when the traditional ecosphere wasn’t necessarily supporting these founders,” says Glossier communications, partnerships, and impact head Veronika Ullmer.
Scott occupies a central position within the Black founder community; one of her investors is Arian Simone's Fearless Fund, a firm that was among the initial entities targeted facing a lawsuit challenging DEI initiatives. Another investor is Emma Grede, the executive who works closely who collaborates with The Kardashian family on their brands, such as Skims.
This connection proved vital in demonstrating the worth Black founders contribute to the beauty sector. Following the closure of Ami Colé, Scott connected N’Diaye, who previously worked at Glossier, with Grede. This morning, Skims announced announced N’Diaye will head up Skims’ upcoming Skims Beauty division. In her role as EVP of beauty and fragrance, N’Diaye will oversee product development, innovation, and brand strategy for Skims Beauty.
The beauty industry has taken notice of this recent hiring. For Skims, a brand that began with a commitment to size and shade inclusivity in its shapewear and apparel, this move signals an intention to extend that same philosophy to its eagerly awaited beauty product line.
This serves as an indicator for Other Black founders in the beauty industry that their knowledge will be appreciated by suitable investors, acquirers, and even employers, notwithstanding the numerous obstacles. While N’Diaye found operating Ami Colé unfeasible due to current economic conditions, the backing of Skims' resources may enable her to realize her vision in some form.
Founders shouldn't always feel compelled to abandon their own brands. Initiatives such as Glossier's aim to prevent these brands from failing prematurely. However, as smaller brands explore future strategies, Skims' endorsement of N’Diaye should serve as a reminder to major corporations and investors about the valuable talent within this sector, provided they recognize it.
Emma Hinchliffe
emma.Hinchliffe@coins2day.com
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